‘Julia’ documentary offers an admiring portrait of Julia Child and her impact on foodie culture

It seems like you can count on one hand — and still have a few digits to spare — the number of pop culture heroes we’re still free to admire, without asterisks.

Thank goodness it’s still okay to worship at the butter-spackled altar of Julia Child, the late cookbook author and food-TV pioneer. “Julia,” a documentary that examines Child’s life and influence on American cuisine and culture, goes down like a sweet crepe Suzette, and thankfully does little to complicate a lifelong fan’s feelings.