Teddy boys: fluffy dad-core fleeces are making a comeback

Fleece in our time: cosy coats are back

If you wait long enough, what was once deeply uncool will rise like a style phoenix elevated to fashion-forward territory

By Helen Seamons and Jo Jones

Like Crocs and Birkenstocks, fleeces are enjoying a golden era. Designers from Off-White to Hermès and Dior have propelled the outdoor-only aesthetic into a more desirable streetwear item. The once fusty dad-core piece has come a long way since the late 70s when Patagonia’s founder, Yvon Chouinard, explored using the fabric, eventually partnering with Massachusetts-based fabric maker Malden Mills, now Polartec, to create the first fleece.

A model on the catwalk at Dior Mens fall 2023 — Dior Mens Fall 2023 Photograph: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD/Getty Images

Patagonia’s El Capitan style, named after the California summit, is the fleece OG but for a thicker version the brand’s Retro-X Fleece style is a nice addition to the oeuvre (£175, workingclassheroes.co.uk). Passenger’s Trekker recycled polyester sherpa fleece with corduroy detail is another off-trail for every day piece, (£114.95, passenger-clothing.com). “If in doubt go Scandi” is a style rule that rarely fails, especially with this category. Danish brand Rains’s Kofu style is extra thick and warm (8), negating the need for outerwear on chilly days.

Performance brands like 66°North and The North Face do fleeces really well but for a fancier fashion edge seek out Heresy, whose folkloric design (3), comes with matching trousers. It would be remiss to talk about fleeces and not mention Drake’s or Aimé Leon Dore, who regularly headline menswear style blogs. Prices are premium, so steal the styling tips and pick up a pocket-friendly one on the high street. Cos’s grey option (5), can be styled over a white shirt with black trousers and Chelsea boots for a look that doesn’t say hike.